We’ll begin the series by discussing the concept of composition.

I believe that the first part about understanding any concept is to define the word or words used to describe that concept. As defined by dictionary.com a composition is:

• the act of combining parts or elements to form a whole.
• the resulting state or product.

This definition shows why we will be starting with composition; because the composition is the image we are creating. We are not taking pictures, we are creating compositions. From the definition we can gather that if we are to create a good composition, or even just a composition by definition, the parts or elements of our photograph must come together to form a whole. If our composition is dis-jointed then is it a composition at all?

So with this understanding we can move into discussion on the techniques for creating compositions. Then in future articles we will go into the elements of design followed by the principles of design; we will then wrap up by coming full circle and seeing how those elements and principles effect our techniques and begin to form the whole in order to produce a good composition.

Alright, no more delays lets jump into the techniques!

Rule of Thirds

The rule of thirds is all about dividing up your space aesthetically. The principle here is that if you divide what you are looking at into thirds vertically and horizontally you will come out with what I call the power grid (I may have heard that somewhere, but I like the name, something about the word power). The benefit of the power grid is that it helps you to place your subject within your overall composition. With your grid in place you will have 4 major points, one could call these power points, in which you want you subject to be on at least one of these points within your composition. This technique helps to eliminate the ‘stale still’, where the subject is perfectly centered and there is no life to the composition.

Lets consider this image:

We’ll divide the image into our power grid where we end up with 9 square areas of focus.

with 4 power points.

You’ll see that the main subject of the image is mostly focused in the top middle square and a major portion of the subject is on or around the top-right power point. This creates a much more dynamic image where the viewers eye is allowed to initially roam the image and is brought up through the image to the focus point.

Perspective

Sometimes in life to make things more interesting or to understand something better we need to see things in a different light, or change our perspective just a bit. The same is true for photography, and thus we move into our second compositional technique; while you are shooting a subject don’t be afraid to move around, change your perspective. Images become boring when they are shot static, from eye level. Try, crawling around on the ground, finding something tall to stand on, or step a few feet closer to you subject so you fill the frame a little more.

To attempt to illustrate the point I’ve set up a small still life in my home.  The first image here is just a basic eye level straight on shot of the still life. My shutter is closed down a bit to give me more depth and keep everything on the table in focus. This image is alright by itself but lets see if we can’t improve them a bit by changing our perspective.

Here’s the same image but shot from the right.

The change makes the image a little bit more dramatic, and gives it a bit more depth. And here’s one more image from from the top looking down.

With this image we get to see an element that was concealed by the other perspectives, the glass in the background adds even more depth to the receding lines of the books.

Let us not forget to talk about depth of field as it pertains to this technique, depth of field is an important part of perspective; as the focus of your subject changes so will the feeling of the photograph. Lets look at how a change in the depth of field of an image can again transform our image into a more interesting piece of art.

The image has the pot in the background blurred out adding depth and interest and also bringing you back to focus on the subject of the book stack. (sorry for the blown highlights but we can talk about lighting or my lack of light control in another post.)

Though these are not dramatic examples of how perspective changes an image I think they illustrate the point that by moving the camera to different angles will give you a completely different image. You might look silly laying down on the ground crawling around or climbing up a tree; but the change in the photo will be well worth it. A change in perspective gives the viewer something that they don’t normally see, it begins to interact with the viewer. Instead of okay I’m looking at a building, the viewer is saying, wow I’ve never seen this building from this view before, that is interesting! The image begins to interact with the viewer, and this is what we want. We want to show people new perspectives, things they may not have known. Create dynamic works of art, perhaps simply by changing perspective!

Watch your Background (and surrounding area)

The final compositional technique is more a tip than a technique but it should be something that you develop into a habit that you use for taking any photograph. Namely, watch your background. Any time you are about to press down on that shutter release, quickly scan your image, start directly behind your subject then move your eye around the frame. What you are looking for is anything that could be distracting and unnecessary. You want to remove from the frame anything that will take the attention from your subject. Possibly the most common thing to watch for are poles or other objects extending out of your subjects head, but distracting elements can come in a variety of forms, just keep a sharp eye out for anything that does not help to communicate your message.

Break the Rules!

Or perhaps I should write it as do not be afraid to break the rules.

The beauty of art is that if you break the rules, you aren’t going to put anyone or anything in danger. This is a fun technique because it gives you the freedom to experiment, to just have fun. One of the best things with owning a digital camera is that it completely eliminates what I call the ‘fear of the film’. When we have a limited amount of something we tend to be more conservative with how we use it up. We want to save our film for that perfect moment or we stick to the safe technique. With digital there is no limit to the number of pictures we can take.

When you understand the rules, you can successfully break them. Remember though, these elements and principles have been developed for a reason and used for hundreds of years, so your best bet is to utilize them to your advantage. Break the rules to experiment, find out what works for you and use the rules to your advantage to create fantastic works of art!

This post is a bit long but I think it covers an important topic of art that will benefit you as a photographer, at least that’s my hope. These are the overall techniques for creating your composition. In conjunction with these techniques there are a number of elements and principles that you should keep in mind. We will be discussing these in more detail throughout this series of articles. The following principles and elements are what we will be discussing:

Design Elements:

• Line
• Shape
• Size
• Texture
• Color
• Value
  

Design Principles:

• Balance
• Repetition
  
• Contrast
• Unity
• Proportion
• Emphasis
• Proximity
  

Share in the comments: Are there any other composition techniques that you use while shooting?

Ask yourself these questions:

What do I want to be able to do with my camera?

Find photos that you really appreciate and ask yourself, how did they get that shot? If I were to recreate this shot what would I need, how would I do it? If possible speak with the photographer.

Do I want to be able to shoot things far away?

Do I want to capture a large amount of a scene?

Do I want to shoot things that are really small?

What will the majority of my shooting situations look like? Will it be low light, fast moving subjects, or perhaps studio portraits?

Through the answer to these and similar questions you will find the answer to what lens will make a perfect companion to your photographic expeditions. Lets look at some lenses and see how the different types can relate to the different answers we get from these questions.

The Macro

Macro lenses are specialty lenses aimed at people who desire to shoot the very small. With a very shallow depth of field they can sometimes be difficult to get the hang of at first but with some practice and creativity you can produce some very impressive photographs. If you are looking to get up close and personal with the small of this world than this is the lens for you. Even within the category of macro there are a myriad of choices, you will again need to think about what you will be shooting. For instance if your subject is a stationary object then a shorter lens such as the Canon EF 50mm may work great for you, but as some of the reviews say and a factor of the shorter zoom living moving subjects could be scared off since you must get closer in to photograph them. In these cases one of the telephoto macro combination lenses may be an appropriate investment.

70-300mm Telephoto/Macro Lens

In fact in my opinion, apart from perhaps a prime lens (which we will get to later), a macro/telephoto combination lens can be one of the best initial lens investments for a beginner photographer. I say this for multiple reasons, first it allows the photographer to experiment with a couple different types of photography, helping them to shoot the very far, and also the very small. Second, these lens combination’s are often cheaper to purchase, allowing the beginner photographer on a budget to get involved in something different.

The Telephoto

800mm Canon Super Telephoto

The telephoto lens is the ultimate zoom. We discussed how the telephoto, within the cheaper models, often gets combined with a macro function. These titans of zoom more often, especially when talking professional model lenses, are single function zooms allowing you to capture the very far. Telephoto lenses come in a variety of zoom distances, from the popular 70-300mm model to the super telephoto 800mm. These super telephoto dedicated zoom lenses are most often used by professional sports and nature photographers. Remember when looking at purchasing a telephoto, well really any lens, always consider the f/stop as this will effect the use of the lens under certain light situations and you should take into account your shooting habits.

Finally a quick note for those looking to photograph other solar systems perhaps consider the Opteka 650-2600mm. As the one reviewer on amazon points out, this lens is more a just for fun (and really only if you’re looking to blow a few hundred dollars) as from what the reviewer states the lens produces grainy images, but not much more should be expected from a lens of this size at this price point.

The Wide-Angle

17-40mm Super Wide-Angle

The wide angle lens is another specialty lens allowing you to capture a greater amount of the scene within your photograph having a broad viewing angle. These lenses can be a lot of fun to play with and offer a lot of creative opportunity. These also let you get pictures in tight spaces where it would not normally be possible to capture the image. Wide angle lenses, like every other lens type, have a variety of choices from the economic to the professional. With macro lenses you will often get image distortion such as larger proportions or lens warping, what looks like the image bending around a spherical object. This phenomenon occurs because the lens uses spherical glass, which is increased with the shorter focal length, but the sensors in the camera are flat. This distortion is much greater within the cheaper models of the lens, but that is to be expected, when one spends five times as much for a lens it should produce better photographs.

The Prime

Nikon 50mm f/1.4

The final lens type we will talk about is the prime lens. This lens is called a prime because it sees the world, at it’s fixed 50mm focal length, as your eye sees it. The lens comes with a large aperture, ranging between a 1.8 and the super rare 1.0 f/stops, allowing for great photographs in low light situations. These lenses are also called the prime lens because many photographers will keep this lens attached to the camera since it offers a great amount of creative control and versatility.

Digital Lens Line

One other factor in lens decision I want to discuss is the digital line of lenses, canon ef-s and nikkor af-s. These lenses are specially made for the consumer digital slr market (think canon rebel xts and Nikon DX cameras). As many of you may be using these camera systems and are wondering if you should invest in these lenses, my initial response is no. The reason I do not recommend investing in these lenses is that since they are specially manufactured for cameras with smaller sensors they will not work on a camera system that includes a full frame sensor, so you are limited on your upgradability.

There is one exception where I would say to go ahead and pick up the digital lens line and that is if you are absolutely certain you will not be upgrading your camera system to a full frame sensor. The digital line does have it’s advantage for those using the smaller sensors. To be simple and brief they effectively eliminate the crop factor of the smaller lenses, which often amounts to about 1.6x. So for example if you purchase a 10mm ef-s lens your effective focal length is 16mm (10 x 1.6) giving you a fantastic wide angle lens.

To conclude, I hope this article has helped you in the decision making process or just in understanding the different types of lenses. Remember while shopping for a lens that the old adage is often true “you get what you pay for”. This is particularly true for lens. Though often you can scour the internet and come across a fantastic deal or, better yet, find that product that works great and is also at a steal of a price; but more often than not, price and quality go hand in hand. Assess your needs and your budget, than go for that lens that will help take your photography to the next level, and always remember to enjoy! Though equippment helps us to achieve better results and be more efficient, photography is about the experience of capturing a moment in time and not just the newest and best.